Winter Botanical Resin Christmas Ornament
Make a clear botanical resin Christmas ornament with winter greenery, delicate flowers, berry accents and just enough snowy detail to make it feel special without making it complicated.
I love the way clear resin makes a few simple winter details feel almost suspended in glass. You really do not need much here. A small evergreen sprig, a few white flowers, a little red and some clear space can make a really pretty ornament.
The trick is giving those little details enough room and not rushing the resin. Evergreen needles can hold onto bubbles, lightweight flowers may want to float, and anything damp can cause problems once it is sealed inside. So this is one of those projects where a little preparation makes the actual making part much easier.
Keep it simple: A shallow, flat ornament mold is much easier to work with than a deep or hollow shape. Start with a thin layer of resin, gently anchor your botanicals, and build from there according to the directions for the exact resin you are using.
The step images below are there to help you picture the process and placement. Your resin label and current Safety Data Sheet should always be the final word on mixing, PPE, ventilation, pour depth and cure timing.
Why I Like This Ornament Style
This kind of ornament works because the clear resin is part of the design, not just something holding everything together. You can see the greenery, flowers and berries, but you can also see plenty of open space around them.
- It feels festive without being overly busy. Evergreen, white flowers and a few red accents are enough to make it feel like Christmas.
- You can keep it natural-looking. Dried botanicals work beautifully, but thin faux pieces can be easier and more predictable for a first project.
- Every ornament can be a little different. Once you understand the basic method, it is easy to change the flowers, ribbon or accents and make your own version.
- It makes a lovely small gift. Add ribbon and a simple box and you have something handmade without needing a huge project.
A Bit More Homemade: This is definitely a project where less can be more. You do not need to fill every little bit of the mold. One main piece of greenery, a few softer details and some clear space can look more finished than trying to fit everything in.
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A Few Things to Know Before You Start
Resin is one of those materials where I would rather read the directions first than try to figure something out halfway through a pour. Different products can have different mix ratios, working times, layer limits and cure schedules, even when they look similar in the bottle.
Before you begin, check the label, current product guide and Safety Data Sheet for the exact epoxy you are using. Make sure you know the correct mix ratio, working time, allowed pour depth, recoat window, cure stages and any temperature or humidity requirements.
One place not to improvise: Uncured resin and hardener can irritate skin and may cause sensitization. Use the ventilation and protective equipment required by your product, keep uncured resin off your skin and clothing, and keep children and pets away from the workspace. Smell is not a reliable way to tell whether exposure is safe.
Why two-part epoxy instead of UV resin?
Two-part craft epoxy makes sense for this particular ornament because greenery, berries and flowers can block UV light from reaching every part of a thicker casting.
It also gives you a little more time to arrange things. For this project, look for a clear epoxy meant for smaller craft molds, jewelry, coasters or similar shallow castings rather than assuming a deep-pour resin is automatically better.
One resin option to compare
One option for a shallow project like this is the Craft Resin crystal-clear epoxy kit (paid link).
Its current Arts & Crafts guidance uses a 1:1 mix by volume, an approximately 35-minute working window, a maximum 1/4-inch layer, and a 4–6 hour tacky layering stage under the manufacturer's stated conditions. I would still re-check the current directions before starting, because cure stages matter more than relying on one general “full cure” time.
Materials and Tools
Having everything ready before you mix the resin makes this project much less stressful once the working time begins.
What you’ll need
- Clear two-part craft epoxy suitable for silicone molds. Choose one that works with the depth of your ornament mold.
- A flat round silicone ornament mold with a built-in hanging hole. Having the hanging hole built into the mold saves you from having to drill the finished ornament later. This round silicone resin mold set has several ornament-style cavities. (paid link)
- Evergreen or holly-style greenery. You can use completely dried real material or a thin natural-looking faux piece.
- Fully dried baby’s breath or a small faux version.
- Small red berry accents. Faux berries are the easier, more predictable choice here. I would not put fresh berries into resin.
- A small white or iridescent accent. Fine resin glitter, resin-safe flakes or a little white mica can give you that snowy look without covering up the botanicals. This sparkling white mica powder made for epoxy resin is one option. (paid link)
- Ribbon or narrow twine. I especially like soft cream, muted green or deep green with these. This cream velvet ribbon fits the softer botanical look nicely. (paid link)
Helpful tools
- Accurate measuring cups. This reusable silicone resin measuring-cup kit is one option. (paid link)
- Mixing sticks
- Precision craft tweezers make it much easier to move tiny flowers and greenery once they are in the mold. (paid link)
- Toothpicks or a small resin-safe pick
- Small clean craft scissors or floral snips
- A level
- Something to protect your work surface
- A clean tote or box you can use as a loose dust cover
Safety equipment
- Gloves made from the material specified by your resin manufacturer
- Safety glasses or goggles appropriate for splash protection
- Protective clothing or apron
- Any respiratory protection specifically required by the product SDS or your workspace conditions
- Appropriate dust control and PPE if cured resin later needs to be sanded or drilled
Choosing Botanicals That Work Well in Resin
This is probably the biggest place where a pretty idea can turn into a frustrating project. The botanicals need to be dry and stable before they ever go into the resin.
Evergreen or pine
A thin evergreen tip works better than a bulky branch. You can use a completely dried real piece or a natural-looking faux sprig. Real greenery may darken or change color over time, so if the exact color matters to you, testing a spare piece first is a good idea.
Red berries
I would use small faux berries here. They give you the Christmas color without adding the moisture and unpredictability of a fresh berry.
Baby’s breath
Fully dried baby’s breath gives you that soft white detail without taking up much space. Keep the cluster fairly small so resin can move around it easily.
Choosing the Mold
For a first ornament, I would keep the mold simple: flat, round and fairly shallow. A built-in hanging-hole post is especially helpful because it means one less thing to finish later.
The exact depth you can pour depends on the resin you choose, so let that product determine whether you need one layer, two layers or more.
Plan the Design Before You Mix Anything
This is the fun part, and it is worth doing before the resin clock starts. Lay everything into the empty mold and move it around until you like the balance.
I would start with one slim evergreen piece, add a little baby’s breath on the opposite side, then tuck in a few berry accents. Try to leave some clear resin around the outside rather than filling the entire circle.
How to Make the Ornament
1. Set up your workspace.
Cover your table, make sure the surface is level and place the clean, completely dry mold somewhere it can stay undisturbed.
Put on the protective equipment required for your resin and set up the ventilation before opening either component. It is much easier to get everything in place now than once the resin has been mixed.
2. Trim your botanicals.
Cut the greenery, flowers and berry accents down to the size you need. The goal is for everything to sit below the finished resin surface rather than sticking out of the top.
3. Dry-fit the design one more time.
Check the mold for dust or lint, then rebuild your arrangement inside it. Make sure the hanging-hole area stays clear. This is also a good time to take a quick photo with your phone so you have something to copy later.
4. Decide how much resin you need for the first layer.
The first pour is only there to create a shallow base that can help hold your botanicals in place. If your resin requires a waiting period between layers, there is no reason to mix the entire ornament’s resin at once.
5. Measure and mix carefully.
Measure Part A and Part B exactly the way your product tells you to. Then stir slowly and thoroughly for the full amount of time it recommends.
Resin is not very forgiving of guessing here, so accurate measuring and complete mixing matter more than mixing quickly.
6. Pour the first shallow layer.
Add just enough resin to create a thin, even layer across the bottom of the mold without going past the pour depth allowed for your product.
If you see obvious surface bubbles, gently work them out using a toothpick or another bubble-removal method approved by the resin manufacturer.
7. Give that layer time to become tacky enough to hold the design.
If you place lightweight flowers into completely liquid resin, they may move around more than you want. Wait for the layering stage recommended by your product before adding them.
8. Add the botanicals.
Using tweezers, place the evergreen first, then add the flowers and berry accents around it. Try not to press everything all the way down. You just want enough contact to keep the pieces in place.
Keep the hanging-hole area clear, and if something feels too bulky, trimming it is usually easier than trying to cover it with extra resin.
9. Add the snowy detail.
This part is easy to overdo. Add just a small amount of resin-safe white or iridescent material where you want a little snowy sparkle, then stop and look at it before adding more.
10. Pour the next layer.
Mix a fresh batch of resin, then pour slowly along an open part of the mold instead of directly onto the flowers. Let the resin move around the botanicals on its own.
Take a minute to look for bubbles hiding around evergreen needles, stems and little flower clusters while the resin is still workable.
11. Add another layer only if you actually need one.
If everything is covered and the ornament is at the depth you want, you can stop. If it needs more resin, follow the recoat directions for your product rather than automatically adding another pour.
12. Cover it and let it cure.
Place a loose dust cover over the mold and leave it alone in the temperature and humidity range recommended for your resin.
Try not to rush this part. Resin can feel dry on the surface before it is ready for demolding, sanding or regular handling. Use the cure stages for your exact product instead of going only by how it feels.
13. Gently remove the ornament from the mold.
Once your resin says it is ready to demold, flex the silicone away from the ornament instead of pulling hard on the resin itself.
If the ornament still feels unusually soft or flexible, stop and give it more attention before forcing it out.
14. Clean up the edge only if it needs it.
A good silicone mold may leave you with almost nothing to do here. If there is a rough edge, wait until the resin is at the cure stage required for sanding or drilling and use the appropriate dust protection.
15. Finish it with ribbon.
Once the ornament is ready for normal handling, add your ribbon or twine. Cream velvet, sage green, deep green, muted red or a natural linen-style ribbon all work beautifully with the botanical look.
If Something Doesn’t Go Quite as Planned
The resin looks cloudy.
Moisture is one of the first things I would look at. Damp botanicals, wet sealer, humidity or a curing problem can all affect clarity.
There are more bubbles than you expected.
Slow down the mixing and pouring, make sure the botanicals are completely dry, and pay special attention to little pockets around needles, flowers and stems.
The botanicals keep floating.
The first layer may still be too liquid. Waiting until the resin reaches the correct tacky stage can give those lightweight pieces something to hold onto.
The greenery or flowers changed color.
Real botanicals can darken or look different once they are surrounded by resin. That does not necessarily mean anything went wrong. If preserving the exact original color matters, test a spare piece before making the ornament.
The resin is still sticky or soft.
Check the basics first: measuring ratio, mixing time, pour depth, temperature and cure conditions. I would follow the manufacturer’s troubleshooting guidance rather than trying to cover a poorly cured layer with more resin.
Make It Your Own: 4 Botanical Ornament Ideas
Once you understand the basic method, this is where the project gets really fun. You can keep the same resin process and change just a few details to make each ornament feel completely different.
You could make four that coordinate, make each one for a different person, or simply use whatever dried botanicals and ribbon you already have.
1. Winter White Botanical
This is the softest version of the group. Use delicate white flowers, a little greenery and a pale sage or cream ribbon. Keeping the colors quiet lets the clear resin really show.
2. Classic Evergreen + Gold
If you love a more traditional Christmas look, use evergreen, a few red berries and just a touch of resin-safe gold. Deep green velvet ribbon gives this one a little more richness without making it fussy.
3. Pressed Flower Keepsake
This one feels a little more personal. Use one larger completely dried flower as the focal point, then add just a few smaller white flowers or metallic details around it.
It could be especially meaningful if the flower came from a bouquet, garden or arrangement that already means something to you.
4. Minimal Snowy Evergreen
This is probably the easiest variation of the four. Use one pretty evergreen sprig and a very small amount of snowy or iridescent detail, then let the clear resin do the rest.
If you tend to keep adding things because there is still room, this is the one where I would stop early.
Same method, different look: These ideas change the design, not the resin process. Keep using dry or tested faux inclusions, follow the same layer and cure limits, and keep the hanging-hole area clear.
Or Make a Coordinating Gift Set
I really like the idea of making several of these at once and letting each one be a little different. Using the same mold shape and similar ribbon keeps them connected, while changing the flowers, greenery or accents makes each one feel special.
Tuck four into a simple kraft box with tissue and ribbon and you have a handmade Christmas gift that feels thoughtful without needing a lot of extra packaging.
A few coordinating designs can easily become a handmade ornament gift set.
Giving One as a Gift
If you are gifting a single ornament, wait until the resin has reached the cure stage required for normal handling and packaging.
Then keep it simple. A little tissue paper, a small kraft box or even tying the ornament onto another wrapped gift can be enough.
A finished ornament, a soft ribbon and simple packaging are enough to make this feel like a thoughtful handmade Christmas gift.
Care and Storage
Once Christmas is over, store the ornament somewhere cool and dry and out of long periods of direct sunlight or high heat.
If you use real botanicals, some color change over time is normal. Wrap the ornament loosely in clean tissue or give it its own little compartment so the resin surface is not rubbing against other decorations.
Before hanging it again next year, give the ribbon and hanging point a quick check.
Winter Botanical Resin Christmas Ornament
A clear round resin ornament with evergreen, baby’s breath, berry accents and a little snowy detail, made in shallow layers with a two-part craft epoxy.
Materials
- Clear two-part craft epoxy suitable for shallow silicone molds
- Flat round silicone ornament mold with built-in hanging hole
- Completely dried real or tested thin faux evergreen
- Fully dried baby’s breath or a small faux equivalent
- Small faux red berries or another dry tested red accent
- A small amount of resin-compatible white or iridescent accent
- Ribbon or narrow twine
Instructions
- Read your resin directions. Check the mix ratio, PPE, ventilation, working time, layer depth, recoat window and cure stages.
- Prepare the botanicals. Make sure real pieces are completely dry and trim everything to fit the mold.
- Dry-fit your design. Leave the hanging hole and outer edge clear.
- Plan the first batch. Mix only enough for the shallow anchoring layer if your method requires a waiting period.
- Measure and mix carefully.
- Pour a shallow first layer. Remove obvious bubbles.
- Wait for the correct layering stage.
- Add the botanicals.
- Add a small snowy accent.
- Pour the next layer slowly around the botanicals.
- Add another layer only if needed.
- Cover and let the resin cure.
- Demold when your product says it is ready.
- Finish rough edges only if necessary and only at the correct cure stage.
- Add ribbon and enjoy your ornament.
Keep Going With a Bit More Homemade
If handmade Christmas projects are your kind of thing, here are a few more places to keep going.
A Bit More Homemade
I think this is one of those projects that gets prettier when you stop trying to make it perfect. A few simple botanicals, a little ribbon and enough clear space for everything to breathe are really all it needs.
Simple Ingredients. Wholesome Living.
You don’t have to do everything. Just start with something—and make your home a bit more homemade one change at a time.
Helpful References
- CDC/NIOSH — About Epoxies and Resins
- CDC/NIOSH — Preventing Skin Disease Guidelines and Recommendations
- Craft Resin — Arts & Crafts Epoxy Resin
- Craft Resin — Safety Data Sheets & Product Guides
- Craft Resin — Epoxy Resin Cure and Layering Guidance
- ArtResin — How Moisture Affects Epoxy Resin
- ArtResin — How to Resin Flowers
- WEST SYSTEM — Preventing Overexposure
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